brasserie prins

A short walk from Vesterbro station, further down Gammel Kongevej, Brasserie Prins - Dave Harrison’s first solo love child - guards the corner of Bagerstræde. Upon arrival, you will find a glass door attached to a big window and above it a charcoal black awning. There is nothing unusual about this setting as such. Were it not for the red and blue graffiti tags plastered on the white brick wall around the entrance in contrast to the fashionable surroundings of Frederiksberg. They are your only hint that something unusual and curious will hit you.

What lies inside is the new haunt of Dave Harrison, a Texan-born chef who worked at Au Passage in Paris and earned a following in Copenhagen for his spirited and inventive cooking at Den Vandrette. Before turning head chef and co-owner of Brasserie Prins. Harrison is part genius, part wild child. And like the graffiti that adorns the outside of his new restaurant, Dave has put his own unique spin on what is usually classy and fashionable. This becomes clear the moment you step through the door, walk up to the bar counter and order an absurdly compelling rialto spritz while you wait for your table.

Very, very French

Throughout the cozily crammed dining room, gleaming, Bordeaux red walls and century-old wooden floors create a perfect setting for the white-clothed tables surrounded by beautiful, slightly provocative paintings and photographs. This is a place unlike many others. A place full of charisma, style and character. 

Like the décor, the menu is enticing, comforting and classical - and ever so slightly edgy. Far from your everyday brasserie crowd pleasers, the dishes are authentic and old-school at their core – and very, very French. Chef Harrison is certainly not shy of using butter. Some dishes are literally bathing in it. Nor does he step away from using ingredients that are atypical for non-French taste buds. They are keeping it real at Brasserie Prins – in their own peculiarly charming way.

Plates packed full of character

This fact became evident from the very first starter; glorious pouce-pied, or gooseneck barnacles as they are often called, boiled in court bouillon. This funky crustacean is considered a delicacy in France and other European countries, but relatively unknown in Denmark and what a crying shame that is. The seductive process of eating this seafood delicacy by grabbing the claw, twisting it, pulling it apart and sucking the soft flesh and juices from the shell of this alien looking creature is beyond comparison. And it is the definition of what Brasserie Prins aims to be: somewhere between formal and informal. A place where flavor dominates, yet getting down and dirty with your hands is quite alright.

As a little more flirtation before the main dishes, the second starter seemed suddenly more familiar. A tarte tatin oignon & crème crue or tart of pleasingly caramelized, almost-scorched, bulbs of onion cut in half, served with raw cream. The excitement rose with the crackling sound of the puff pastry as the knife cut through the shell, and happiness ensued as the alluring taste of the sweet onions, full fat sour cream and buttery crust filled the mouth. A decadent bite best paired well with one too many glasses of the biodynamic bubbly or punchily acidic Chardonnay off the natural wine menu featuring wines from Rosforth & Rosforth.

Daring, provocative and deeply satisfying 

As mains came along, dishes went from far beyond solid to something delightful and impressive. The sort of cookery that makes you pause, mid-conversation, and study the plate. The hero dish, cervelle de veau à la grenbloise, or pan-fried veal brain with capers, surrounded by satellites of croutons and rustic chunks of lemons from Menton, that exploded in fireworks of sweet acidity on the tongue. Veal brains, not usually an aesthetically pleasing dish, become not only enticing but an absolute delicacy and a work of art at Brasserie Prins. Balanced, perfectly textured and downright scrumptious. A dish that perfectly encapsulated the feel of Brasserie Prins, daring, provocative and deeply satisfying. 

 Similarly warm, fuzzy feelings arose with the vol au vent aux champignons. Another decadent puff pastry creation, this time filled with several kinds of mushrooms from local Bygaard farm. A savory mixture of umami laced in an almost overwhelmingly richly flavored sauce to create an outrageously decadent guilty pleasure that should really only be devoured behind closed doors.

Tantalizing zing

What about dessert, you may wonder? When asked, the cheery, service minded waitress promptly suggested the Tarte au Citron de Menton made with lemons from the French part of Côte d’Azur,  known for their moderate acidic flavor with no characteristic bitterness and their incredible sweetness. A lewdly glossy, sweet wonder with a perfectly baked crust and a tantalizing zing. Like the rest of the menu, it followed a classic formula of classic French perfection with a slight modern edge . A delectably sweet and satisfying end to an emotionally overwhelming meal.

In short, Brasserie Prins offers casual, unpretentious dishes that are, above all, reliable and reasonably priced. Chef Harrison’s often voluminous servings play out like a series of small acts that are perfectly in tune, yet with a beautifully edge to them. A setting that features everything from classic homey comfort to pictures of naked ladies on the wall and a friendly yet laid-back attitude. This all-day, all-week brasserie is soul-warming and intimate. Essentially, a perfect card to have up your sleeve for a night out with a bunch of friends. Or perhaps even a fun-filled, informal first date out of the ordinary.