ole troelsø

There is a trace of mild laughter and a lot of his signature warmth in his voice, but also a sense of earnestness as if the seasoned food writer is genuinely offended by the lack of understanding for what has become one of his favorite culinary concepts: classic, Danish smørrebrød.

It’s Saturday morning in northern Copenhagen and at a lone table in a lunch restaurant sits the food and wine editor of Danish newspaper Børsen , sharing his secret obsession obsession, and trying to answer a few burning questions: What has someone so seasoned in the world of fine dining so interested in something so seemingly mundane as classic Danish smørrebrød? What inspires someone so good with words to dedicate large parts of his authorship to the very subject of smørrebrød? It seems an unlikely obsession, and in the end, the answer turned out far from as simple as expected. It turned out to be quite the love story.

What is smørrebrød? Ole Troelsø explains

For starters, we asked Ole to explain to an international audience what smørrebrød is and what it isn’t. And following a minute-long talk on the significance of butter and a tirade against a Japanese instagrammer who doesn’t understand smørrebrød, it seems perfectly clear that to Ole, smørrebrød is much more than the standard Wikipedia definition of a “traditional open-faced sandwich of buttered rye bread topped with cold cuts, pieces of meat or fish, cheese or spreads, and garnishes.” 

The butter is most important and most often overlooked, we are informed. It serves as a binder between the two other important elements needed for Ole Troelsø to recognize something as smørrebrød: a good slice of bread and cold cuts, fish or meats of your choice. It is, in a way, a simple definition and in the same way not simple at all. To Ole, our talk reveals, smørrebrød is so much more than a three-piece band bound by butter.

To Ole, smørrebrød is about childhood memories, it’s about the illusive and hard to define Danish concept of hygge and it’s about quality of ingredients and it’s about passion. “I’ve loved smørrebrød for as long as I can remember,” the celebrated gourmand recalls, “It is one of the first things I remember really loving food wise. I was a picky eater as a child and I loved being able to pick and choose exactly what I wanted from a huge selection.”

Smørrebrød - A life-long obsession

“I was born and grew up in the Copenhagen municipality of Frederiksberg. We lived right between Oscar Davidsens Smørrebrød and Frederiksberg Smørrebrød which is now closed,” he continues along the track of early childhood food memories. “My father was an accountant and he loved smørrebrød. He would always bring it home for special occasions and I loved digging into those white boxes,” he says with a mild hint of nostalgia in his voice.

To Ole, quality smørrebrød is, in many ways, culinary art and craftsmanship on much the same level as the food of the gourmet hotspots he usually frequents. It is a culinary movement that, like so many others, have undergone switching trends, fads and changes in style: from classic over new school to modern and innovative and all the way back again. 

Perhaps, to the outsider, it sounds a bit like much ado about nothing, but Ole Troelsø is dead set in his love and appreciation for smørrebrød and his crusade to paint the culinary importance of this most Danish of meals. In his newest book, appropriately titled “The Book Of Smørrebrød”, Ole - along with a bit of history and background - presents a Top 50 List of the best smørrebrød restaurants in Denmark, based on his own proprietary grading scale which factors in the five most important aspects of smørrebrød: quality, selection, beverages, service and the illusive and world-famous Danish concept of hygge. 

On these five important criteria, he has built a list that is as interesting and diverse as it is sometimes surprising. Ida Davidsen, the Queen of Smørrebrød, is on there. As is one of the catalysts of the modern Smørrebrød revolution, Adam Aamann. And just about everyone in between. All for entirely different reasons. Ida is on the list for the historical impact of her business and the vastness of her selection, he explains, not so much for the quality of her smørrebrød. Adam, on the other hand, makes it for his innovative approach and attention to quality and detail in his small but delicious selection that Ole, however, finds entirely too narrow.

Picks like these highlight the diversity of the list and of Ole’s own character. Throughout his list, he is surprisingly fair and including, but remains critical - even of legends of the industry and personal favorites. He makes no pretense: one does not have to be on top of all five of his criteria to make the list. In fact, his list includes restaurants where the quality of the food perhaps isn’t the best, but the hygge-factor alone makes them worthy of an entry. Other entries he praises for their food then scolds them for their beverage selection or lack of hygge or proper service. For Ole, his list is as much about highlighting the diversity of the scene and certain elements thereof, as it is about finding perfection in one of the topics most dear to his heart. Luckily, as perfection certainly doesn’t come easy in a world of smørrebrød seen through the eyes of a smørrebrød aficionado.

The best smørrebrød in Denmark according to Ole Troelsø

While you obviously do not have to top every category to make it onto the list, Ole is very selective about who makes it to the very top of the list and it is not merely based on criteria of history or innovation. “Ida Davidsen has 26 - still a far cry from her grandfather’s 179 pieces - and they’re all… OK. Aamanns has eight and they are absolutely superb,” he explains thoughtfully, “but still, I find both extremes quite… Unambitious!” “For a smørrebrød restaurant to shine, there has to be quality and selection. Look at Schønnemanns, they have a selection of 70 to 80 pieces and they’re all good! There’s a reason they’re number one on my list,” he blurts out, thus giving away his absolute top pick for smørrebrød in Denmark.

It sounds like a simple choice, knowing the history and reputation of Ole’s number one. Still, there is more to it than quality and selection. Or great beverages, superb service and hygge factor en masse for that matter, all of which are surely present at Schønnemanns for it to top the list. Everybody who is in the know about the smørrebrød and lunch scene in Copenhagen will agree with Ole Troelsø that Schønnemanns is magical. But for Ole, the smørrebrød lover, it is magical for reasons that transcend measurability and star ratings.

“You know what,” he finishes with a smile, “if I had to name my favorite restaurant in Copenhagen - regardless of category, it would probably still be Schønnemanns.”

As you witness his eyes and voice light up at the mention of Schønnemanns, you understand that his list and his book is not all about measurable criteria like taste, quantity and service. It is just as much about history, tradition, feelings and love. The love of smørrebrød, For someone who has grown up with smørrebrød as his first and favorite food memory, coming to a classical, old-school establishment like Schønnemanns and eating a few pieces of smørrebrød with a beer and an aquavit must feel like coming home. To a very safe, wonderful home.

We all have these culinary homecoming experiences and it is in hearing one of Ole’s that you finally understand the significance of the Danish tradition - to him and to many Danes his age. The story of smørrebrød is one of craftsmanship, innovation, dedication and of love for an at once almost forgotten art and it is a story that deserves to be told. And who better to tell it with respect, really, than one of Denmark’s foremost gourmands and food writers?