bistro17

That man’s name is Mads Søndergaard, and if that somehow rings a bell, it is probably because his impressive resumé lists both such Michelin-starred merits as AOC, Marchal and Kadeau, as well as leading the Danish national chef’s team to several victories.

Despite his achievements, Mads Sønderaard remains a man with both feet solidly planted on the ground. His new venture, Bistro17, is not meant to be a revolutionary, avant-garde, fine dining experience. It is meant to be a casual, upscale and affordable bistro experience served up in a historic setting that should be as familiar to locals as it is fascinating to visitors. A setting where classic, well-known Danish and French dishes are elevated slightly with a mix of love, technique and quality ingredients to create a recognizable value for money dining experience for the casual diner.

Casual dining in a historical setting

Bistro17 draws its name from its central location at No. 17 on the town’s main square and is gorgeous in terms of location and appearance. Stepping in the front door of the bright, modern and completely renovated space, you can instantly tell that this used to be the town’s local cinema in the days before big chain cineplexes ruined everything. And, indeed, every effort has been made in the restoration process to respect the look and feel of the old movie theater.

The modern and trendy main dining room with its large open floor and partially open kitchen offers somewhat of a movie theater lobby and box office feel. The larger banquet hall for private parties, on the other hand, has actually maintained the look and feel of a movie theater, complete with multi-level seating along the back wall.

To the nostalgically inclined diner, it is as if no expense and no time has been spared to offer a new and exciting, upscale yet casual dining experience in a space that honors and pays tribute to the history and the feel of the town you are in.

A diverse but approachable menu

Once seated in these beautiful and nostalgic surroundings, you are quickly approached by the friendly staff with a menu that is as simple to navigate as it is surprising in terms of depth and complexity. Head chef and partner, Mads Søndergaard, in his own words, is uncompromising in his selection of meat, fish and produce and it shows in the menu which is made up of a large selection of fresh, local seafood, a handful of poultry dishes, the obligatory burger, a grilled steaks section, and of course sides, sauces and desserts.

With even a few vegetarian options in place, it is clear that the menu was constructed to cater to all palates, but it will cater particularly well to those who shares Mads Søndergaard’s love for freshly caught fish and seafood.

The shredded crab with ramson, cress and tomato, for example, is fresh and full of flavor. And with the tomato element played by a dusting of dehydrated tomato powder, it perfectly highlights Chef Søndergaard’s ability to play with numerous flavors, textures, layers and elements. All while maintaining a beautiful and simple presentation that seems neither pretentious nor over the top. The plating is kept simple, yet beautiful, colorful and bright. To call it an absolute delight on the eyes would be no exaggeration in this case.

Equally impressive and beautiful is the marinated tuna with tiger milk, chili, red onion jelly, grilled corn, cilantro shoots and tomato bouillon split with chive oil. Stunning in composition, presentation and flavor, it represents perhaps the strongest item on a menu that is wholesome, seasonal and leaves you wanting to come back for more.

A sweet spot for every tooth

Compared to the packed main card, the dessert card in comparison seems short, but sweet - no pun intended. It consists of one signature dessert - a playful, decadent variation of the classic B52 cocktail in the shape of three types of alcohol-infused chocolate mousse served with blackcurrant ice cream - as well as one or two very seasonal items.

At the time of visiting, the seasonal dessert offering included a mix of Danish strawberries and rhubarb, served with almond cake, white chocolate, woodruff and an ice cream made of sorrel. Neither too sweet, nor too fresh, it was the perfect embodiment of a modern New Nordic dessert that hits the perfect sweet spot between sweet and savory.

Speaking of sweet spots, this is exactly what Mads Søndergaard’s new Køge venture seems to hit with diners. A sweet spot between what is familiar and what is playfully elevated. Bistro17 is not fine dining; it is elevated casual dining with heart and soul. It is approachable and it is well priced for the level of quality and attention to detail it represents. And that is perhaps just what a seaside town like Køge needs. An option that is neither too fancy, nor too casual, but seemingly perfect for the location.

Stepping into the historic frame of the town’s old cinema and enjoying the riches that the kitchen has to offer is indeed a treat for all senses. Following this new and exciting kitchen across the seasons should only prove interesting and joyful for locals and tourists alike.

Or maybe equal amounts of joy will simply be found in simply dropping by for one of the house signature cocktails or a glass from the extensive and wine menu? Thanks to the revolutionary Coravin system, many wines, including top ones, are available by the glass seven days a week. Even on Sundays and Mondays where the kitchen is closed.

In short, Chef Søndergaard’s beautifully simplistic dishes – while a step down from his Michelin past - paint a great picture of what 21st century entry-level dining should be: Fresh, local ingredients treated with respect and curiosity, served at a reasonable makes this a must-try dining experience for the culinarily curious.