admiralgade 26

“I beg you friend, be happy. I have the vague sense that on your capacity to be happy hangs our only hope.” With this quote from Czech writer Milan Kundera’s novel “Slowness” begins the printed menu at Admiralgade 26. And seldom have words seemed more profound yet absolutely fitting, because within the walls of this modern eatery lies the foundation of a happy Saturday in Copenhagen.

Admiralgade 26, in more ways than one, is a beautiful understatement. The ever so overused label “hidden gem” seems, for once, justifiable here as you step through the unassuming front door of this century-old manor house and into a hall of wonders.

The definition of Zen

What first hits you as you step into the airy space, beautifully illuminated by natural light from the tall windows, is how wonderfully Admiralgade 26 nails the cliché many restaurants have struggled to fulfill: the sense of entering into a stylish private home.

Your first steps take you into a sort of entrance hall, complete folding shoji screens and old fashioned coat stands. “Hi, welcome,” chefs call warmly from the open kitchen on your right, before they smilingly return to their chores. Energetic and full of passion, they carry on as words like “yes chef” and “thank you” replace their friendly greetings, prompting you to smile in anticipation. Captivated, you take another look around. There is art on the walls around you. Cozy seating arrangements everywhere. Private nooks and crannies in the corners and larger tables for parties set at the back of the spacious dining room.

The impressive space seems airy and peacefully zen - even as it starts to fill with the soft chatter of curious eaters from around the globe. The crowd is predominantly young and hip. English is the language of choice for many guests and staff members alike, and the decor mirrors the multicultural vibe; local and familiar, yet Japandi chic and captivating. 

Along the walls are shelves packed with books on art and cooking as well as wine bottles, plants and small decorative pieces. The feel is like walking into someone's super cool living and dining room.  Like a temple of inspiration and stimulation.

A lighter take on the brunch experience

With the Saturday Choushoku concept, head chef Jonas Hildgaard and his playful, energetic staff has created a captivating concept that encompasses rustic, Nordic simplicity as well as Japanese elegance. By and large, they cook what they want here, and change things up whenever they feel like it. So explains the chef as he proceeds to cover your table with a plethora of small, culinary experiences, all of them served family style to create an informal sensation matching the peaceful, beautiful surroundings.

The ever-changing selection of dishes vary from Saturday to Saturday, depending on what is available, fresh, and in season, but will usually include twists on Japanese breakfast staples like miso soup, rice, eggs, 1 or 2 vegetable sides and a further 1 - 2 seafood courses. The intention is clear. To create a bright, filling and fresh start to the day. It is a twist on the familiar, the smiling chef argues. A concept geared to fill you up in body, mind and spirit. Yet, in a less overpowering way than your standard brunch alternatives. And it is, quite frankly, a concept that is as subtly genius as it is unexpected and invigorating.

To accompany your breakfast, you are offered a choice from a generous selection of wines and alcoholic beverages to kick off your Saturday with a smile. It is okay, your waiter assures you, it is Saturday after all. However, those not in the mood for a buzzing start to the day are free to enjoy either a perfectly poured coffee or a small selection of black or green teas. 

Tea being almost synonymous with Japanese culture, it seems a perfect beginning, and a green tea with a hint of citrus and ginger perfectly sets the mood. Mild in taste and aroma, yet paradoxically full of depth, it perfectly encapsulates the beautiful paradox of Japanese flavors.

The Japanese paradox - subtle intensity of flavors

Tea aside, few things are more comforting in Japanese-inspired surroundings, than starting the day with a bowl of warm miso soup. Clean, yet flavorful and deep, miso is an odd flavor to describe. Mildly savory, somewhat roasted, and at the same time very light and quite rich. It seems a dictionary definition of umami and a benchmark of the Japanese kitchen, and in all aspects, the version served at Admiralgade 26 certainly delivers on all levels and pairs beautifully with a soothing bowl of steamed rice (gochan) topped with dried squid ink.

Tamagoyaki, a rolled Japanese omelet, is a staple of many Japanese breakfasts. Yet, at Admiralgade 26, they are not afraid to produce worthy substitutes like one Saturday’s showpiece of poached egg with leeks in dashi. This gorgeous dish offers a perfect clash between textures and flavors as the firm egg white gives way to the gentle pressure of your spoon and the intense creaminess of egg yolk oozes into the clean, subtle oceany dashi in a mix of perfect harmony.

It is the sort of dish that shows a sense of style and presentation, but not in a show-offish manner. Just as the sashimi of hamachi swimming in a sea of yuzu and hazelnut oil. Plump in size, the slices of fresh raw fish taste clean and perfectly balanced with a nutty note, an oily mouthfeel and subtly sweet acidity. A joy its own but also a perfect companion to the other seafood dish of the day, a serving of fried cod roe, mushrooms, nori and mirin served in a surprising harmony that stuns the senses.

Even the untraditional kobachi, or vegetable side dishes, are on point. Consider, for example, perfectly cooked and pleasantly crunchy salsify cooked in a miso, ginger and salted lemon glaze then topped with fermented kumquats. Also known as poor man’s asparagus, salsify indeed tastes like a less sweet white asparagus with nutty undertones, draped in umami and depth from the miso with a subtle bite of salty citrus and a balanced ginger heat.

Whatever you do, do not skip desserts

In so many ways, the essence of Admiralgade 26’s cuisine is like the beautiful interior. It is one of perfect harmony. The main elements are local with a seasoning touch of Eastern mystery and drawing on techniques from around the culinary world. It is the sort of breakfast spectacle that leaves you full and happy, but not in any way stuffed or weighed down. Happy and fulfilled, yet somehow yearning for more.

For those with a sweet tooth, this yearning will probably lead towards the highly recommendable and well-priced dessert options. A white chocolate mousse with sesame caramel, blood orange and mandarin granités , for example, seems almost like an attack on the senses. Intense mandarin notes and slightly bitter blood orange wipe the palate of previous impressions and pave the way for the flavorful depths of a caramelized white chocolate mousse that fades away with an unfamiliar but certainly not unpleasant sesame caramel note.

And with that one last heavenly bite, it is over. An hour or two have passed, but in these blissful surroundings it feels like more.